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Canvas is an essential part of the suit, it determines the shape of the suit and ensure it will mould to your body naturally. Imported from Germany, we apply 4 different type of canvases – Wool canvas, Horsehair cloth, French linen canvas and Flannel cover to our full and half canvased suits. Each canvas have different characteristics and stiffness and each of them have different function to the suits. The Wool canvas is to form the jacket shape; the Horsehair is an enforcement to the chest area; the french canvas is to form the support for the chest, shoulder and collar while the flannel cover is to prevent the canvas’s fibres scratching the user.
These multiple layers of canvases will be cut and sewn together to form the foundation of the jacket. Moreover, in order to ensure the canvas work perfectly, we will fully padded the canvas together.
We use 2 different size of thread to our suits: For sewing purpose, we use Tkt 100/Tex 30 or Tkt 120/Tex 24 depends on the quality of the shell fabric of the suit. This quality is durable and thin, which is perfectly match to the density of the fabric. While for the padding purpose, we adapt a thinner thread – Tkt 150/Tex 18, because we tend to hide all the paddings on the canvases and the lapels in order to ensure the touch of smooth of the fabric.
Depends on the style of suits, we will apply different shoulder pad to the jacket. From the thinnest (0.2cm) to the thickness (1cm); single layer to multiple layers; machine padded or hand padded. In order to made some special finishing, some shoulder pads have to be custom made, for example the rope shoulder (available in bespoke only).
Tapping one of the important craftsmanship to form the shape of the jacket, especially on the lapel roll line. The shoulder, arm hole, jacket front and the lapel roll line of our suits are taped.